Sébastien Roux

In July, the lavender fields brighten the Valensole plateau in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, not far from Digne-les-Bains. Proud to display their harvests and craftsmanship, lavender growers nevertheless must deal with a growing number of acts of disrespect.

At first glance, the landscape has all the makings of a Provençal postcard: endless fields where the blue hues of lavender sit beside the golden wheat ears. Yet all it takes is a turn of the head to spot countless tourists wandering across the lavender farmers’ land, phone in hand, snapping photos.

Little used in winter, Departmental Road 6—linking Manosque to the Valensole plateau—fills with vehicles during the lavender bloom. On the roadside, cars, caravans and motorcycles are parked haphazardly. License plates reveal their origins: France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, and even the Netherlands. A few meters farther, buses are parked in lots set up by certain farmers. Groups of Asians, Americans and Brazilians pass by, admiring and inhaling the scent of the plant that writer Jean Giono described as “the soul of Provence.”

A Financial Windfall

Ideally located, the Angelvin family farm is one of the most visited on the Valensole plateau. Over four generations, the estate has expanded considerably—growing from 12 hectares at the end of the 19th century to 215 hectares in 2019. Welcoming tourists has become a major source of income, explains Laetitia Angelvin, who runs the farm with her husband Rémi.

“Visits last around 45 minutes,” Laetitia explains while tending to the souvenir shop. “We focus on the three species grown here to explain each one’s benefits. We show the entire process: from planting to harvesting to distillation.”

Soaps, lavender sachets and perfumes sell like hotcakes, but, she notes, “the most popular products remain essential oils. They are especially sought after to relieve rheumatism and muscle pain through massages.” She adds: “Our peak attendance was in 2018. Brazilians came in large numbers, and we had to hire a saleswoman who spoke Mandarin to help overcome the language barrier with Chinese visitors.”

In July 2018, France 3 also produced a report on the consequences of tourism in the lavender fields. © France 3

A Symbol of Romance

The Asian enthusiasm for lavender is linked to the 2009 success of Dreams Behind a Crystal Curtain, a Chinese romantic television series featuring a love scene set in a lavender field. After Paris, Provence has become the other symbol of French-style romance: newlyweds come to have their photos taken here in their finest attire.

This success, however, has consequences for the daily lives of lavender growers. Françoise Fanguiaire, who runs the Maison du Lavandin in Puimoisson, says that “summer 2019 is breaking all records for uncivil behavior.” Rémi Angelvin observes the same trend but puts the influx into perspective: “Their presence is essential for keeping our region going, but it’s unacceptable to find trash in our fields, which are freely accessible. We don’t forbid people from taking photos—quite the opposite—but it has to be done respectfully. Some lie down on the lavender and even cut it right in front of us as if they were at home!”

The situation nearly escalated when two Russian tourists accompanied by a photographer refused to leave the property of Jean-Paul Angelvin, Rémi’s father. He then decided to install symbolic fencing nets normally used to contain sheep. “People talked about it on social media,” explains Rémi Angelvin. “Since then, others have spoken up—other lavender farmers are complaining and considering putting up fences in front of their plots. It’s a matter of finding balance, but communication is key to preventing these behaviors. We are in contact with tour operators, guides and the tourism office to address these issues.”

Raising awareness also involves installing, over the past few years, road signs around the lavender fields. Drivers are urged to exercise caution. Numerous accidents have already occurred, often caused by a poorly parked car at the exit of a bend. Despite climate change (see inset), “blue gold” retains its value. The endowment fund for the preservation of Provence lavender estimates that the sector provides 9,000 direct and indirect jobs, including 1,700 producers harvesting lavender across 25,000 hectares.

Threatened by Climate Change

“Within twenty to thirty years, lavender harvesting may become difficult in Provence,” warns Eric Chaisse, one of the coordinators of the Endowment Fund for the Safeguarding of Provence Lavender, created in 2012. For more than a decade, repeated droughts have weakened this iconic plant of southeastern France. “Even though lavender withstands high temperatures, it needs water to grow. Irrigation projects are underway on the Valensole plateau. Our role is to fund research programs to fight the dieback disease transmitted by leafhoppers—an insect that feeds on plant sap. We have also launched a program exceeding one million euros to reduce CO₂ emissions by 50% by 2029 and fossil-fuel consumption in the fields, through practices linked to agroforestry and sustainable development.”