I'm starting the last leg of my road trip in the Dominican Republic. The weather decides to make things a little more challenging. Less than two minutes after setting off, I'm caught in my first tropical downpour, which promises a trip where I'll end up completely soaked. No matter, this third itinerary will treat my taste buds in Las Terrenas, introduce me to the Salto El Limón waterfall, the beaches and caves of Las Galeras, a sailing trip to Cayo Levantado, and finally, total relaxation in El Valle.

Cabarete – Las Terrenas : For nearly four hours, bursts of tropical showers alternate with brief lulls. To protect my belongings, all I have is a simple poncho. Since I’ve booked a gastronomic experience for the evening, finding shelter on the side of the road and waiting it out isn’t an option. In any case, the weather forecast looks bad until the next morning…

Riding in this rain is far from enjoyable. Against my better judgment, I end up adding extra difficulty, as if I needed to spice up the adventure even more. I didn’t take the time to properly check my route and, with the rain pouring down, I prefer not to stop and simply follow my instincts. As I exit the town of Nagua, I keep going straight instead of turning left.

After a few kilometers, I finally pull over. I feel like I’m taking a cold shower when I realize my mistake. Two options lie ahead: go back and take the correct exit in Nagua, or follow another route by leaving the main road. I choose the second option.

Little by little, the road narrows after a series of small villages surrounded by fields. The rain stops just as the road becomes a muddy track. I ask several farmers if I’m heading in the right direction to reach Las Terrenas. One points west, another points east, while a third suggests I return to the main road. My GPS eventually gets me out of this mess when I opt for the eastern track, which leads a few kilometers later to a highway entrance. Night is beginning to fall, so there’s no time to lose. My motorcycle slaloms around the many potholes filled with water. The ride gives me a rush of adrenaline, making me forget all my troubles.

A journey for the taste buds

I arrive in Las Terrenas over an hour late. Alfredo Rueda, a chef, is waiting for me in his workshop near Coson Beach. Originally from Venezuela, he has lived in Las Terrenas for 9 years. After Covid, he wanted to offer something different from a traditional fine-dining restaurant.

Every Friday, he welcomes a small group into his workshop for a menu he calls “The 7 Courses”. To bring this experience to life, three Dominicans work alongside him preparing dishes and managing the service. The lights are dim, the décor full of wood, the gestures precise.

For one evening, we taste multiple Dominican flavors using fresh, local ingredients. Alfredo manages to surprise us by combining flavors we thought were incompatible. Every dish has a story to tell, every ingredient an impact on our health.

I end this memorable evening riding along partially flooded roads to spend the night at Mambo Hotel. The place is run by Manny Ramirez, a Dominican biker who opened his establishment earlier this year. Elegant Mexican-inspired architecture for an exceptionally relaxing night. The next morning, over a hearty breakfast, I take a moment to admire his Royal Enfield Continental GT 650 displayed in the living room.

When it’s time to leave, I simply get back on my Sucati CG 150 to reach Playa Bonita before continuing on to Salto El Limón, a magnificent and towering waterfall in the heart of the jungle, accessible on foot or on horseback.

No trouble, hoist the sails

At the very end of the Samaná Peninsula, where the road can no longer push past the ocean, Las Galeras appears. I meet up with a group of friends on one of the beaches of this small coastal village, still untouched by mass tourism. We spend part of the afternoon at Playa La Playita before turning into adventurers and exploring two interconnected caves nearby.

From these caves (Cueva de Duarte and Cueva Caletón), it’s possible to walk along idyllic, uninhabited beaches all the way to Playa Rincón and its turquoise lagoon named Caño Frío, after its refreshingly cool water.

The next morning, we continue exploring the area by jumping off the La Hondonada cliff under the watchful eye of a local. He doesn’t hesitate to climb coconut trees to get us a few coconuts. Then we ride toward a small private port on the outskirts of the town of Samaná to board one of Greensail’s sailboats.

Captain Pablo and his deckhand sail toward Cayo Levantado, a small island at the entrance of Samaná Bay. We unfortunately arrive a bit too late to witness an astonishing natural phenomenon. Each year in February and March, humpback whales come to the bay to give birth or mate.

On the other side of the bay, we can see the Los Haitises National Park in the distance—a nature reserve filled with mangroves and rich wildlife. When he sets out for a full-day trip, Pablo hoists the sails and navigates all the way there.

Total disconnection in El Valle

The day ends and it’s already time to say goodbye to my friends who must return to Cabarete. As for me, I extend the pleasure by riding toward El Valle, a small village tucked into a lush natural setting. There’s only one bumpy road from Samaná that leads there.

During this 45-minute ride, the rain returns. I arrive at Ganesh just in time to find shelter. I’d been advised to stay at this hostel, which also offers private rooms. In El Valle, there’s no mobile network all year round and the internet connection becomes very unstable on rainy days. But the essential lies elsewhere—this place radiates a special energy.

Proof of that comes the next morning when I meet Paola, a Catalan woman who settled here. After kindly preparing breakfast for me, she offers to show me around. Despite the light rain, we walk toward the beach talking about spirituality. With our feet in the sand, she shows me where a river finishes its journey and flows into the sea. Even though I barely know Paola, that doesn’t stop her from undressing completely so we can go for a swim. Then we walk for a few minutes through nature in our birthday suits.

Back at Ganesh, we share a hot tea. With one of her friends, Paola talks about the foundations of her project to create a spiritual sanctuary in an abandoned place she hopes to rent and restore. She invites me to stay a little longer in El Valle to truly grasp the energy of the area. The offer is tempting, but I need to return to Cabarete.

Only, when it’s time to leave, I can’t find my motorcycle keys. I search everywhere, but they’ve simply vanished. In reality, they had fallen into my toiletry bag—something I will only realize once I’m back. This little mishap in the middle of nature makes me aware of something: starting a Sucati CG 150 without its key is child’s play.

A Dominican man proves it in seconds by touching a few wires and using the kick starter. He offers to replace the starter mechanism and install a new key. Once the quick repair is done, I’m ready for the final stretch of this road trip. I have just under 200 kilometers left to ride from El Valle to Cabarete.

Despite the unstable weather, I no longer fear the rain. This time, the route is direct, following the coast. I stop only at the El Saltadero waterfall to admire the cascade, and later in the town of Río San Juan to fill my stomach with delicious empanadas.

On the horizon, the clouds darken. I won’t be able to avoid one last downpour. No matter—we were only dreaming of freedom! Beside me, the magnetic voice of Jim Morrison whispers simple words: “Riders on the storm, riders on the storm…” Out loud, I repeat these words under the tropical rain.

Sébastien Roux

Cover photo © Sébastien Roux