For my second route heading south on the island, I leave the coast and head inland. My main goal is to meet up with a group of bikers based in Santiago de los Caballeros, the country's second largest city after the capital, Santo Domingo. I leave Cabarete in threatening weather and head for the village of Sabaneta, where I take a mountain road leading to Moca.

I stop for a few moments in Jamao al Norte, especially along the Rio Blanco at Balneario El Chorro and Balneario La Represa. This river is perfect for cooling off. The surrounding area is also home to many waterfalls. With its climbs, curves, and descents, the road is a pleasure to ride. Once I reach the summit of La Cumbre, I take in the view from the bar-restaurant El Molino.

I manage to avoid the rain all the way to La Vega, a city known for its carnival held every Sunday in February. In the Dominican Republic, carnival is an institution. During this festive event, colors erupt and bodies let loose. In 2018, I had the opportunity to attend before putting on the thick costume of a devil during a parade in Cabarete. Journalism allowed me to immerse myself in this exuberant universe. Night starts to fall, and I decide not to linger so I can reach Santiago by taking a stretch of highway.

The Conquistadors of Santiago

On the outskirts of the city, I have a meeting with motorcyclists who gather every Friday at their clubhouse decorated in black and orange. They are the Conquistadors of Santiago, a group founded in 2008 by Alfredo Perdomo. Of the 21 current members, more than a dozen welcome me. Beer in hand, the atmosphere is friendly. The decor features motorcycle photos alongside rock guitars hanging on the walls. These Friday gatherings allow them to plan group rides organized on Saturdays and Sundays. All members ride bikes of at least 700cc, mainly Harley-Davidsons. They proudly wear their patch on their jackets, emphasizing that there is no unhealthy rivalry with other motorcycle clubs.

“In addition to Santiago, we opened a chapter in New York. Unlike in the U.S., here there are no turf wars between motorcycle groups. We want to step away from the clichés that often portray us as delinquents or outcasts. If you look around, you’ll see people with respected professions like lawyers or doctors. I founded this motorcycle group with the desire to create bonds around three values: honor, respect, and brotherhood. We also carry out social actions to improve Dominican society in our own way,” Alfredo explains. In a few minutes, other riders will stop by to greet the members, share a cigar, and listen to music while talking about motorcycles.

On the Road to Puerto Plata

The next day, I’m invited to ride alongside them to Puerto Plata. Mario Roman, the founder of the POP Bikers, is organizing a gathering of sports cars and motorcycles. Other riders from around the country will also be attending. Before that, I use my morning to quickly explore Santiago. Over the past forty years, the city—laid out in a grid like in the U.S.—has seen strong growth. In the center, perched on Castillo Hill, stands the Monument to the Heroes of the Restoration. Built in white marble, the monument rises 67 meters high. It honors those who fought for Dominican independence from Spain.

To continue my journey through the country’s history, I head to the Centro León, which has been promoting Dominican art, culture, and identity since 2003. Then I make my way to the garage of Alsaid Perdomo, Alfredo’s son. With Nicromotos, he specializes in metallic finishes with nickel-plated and chrome-plated parts. Several motorcycles are stored in the garage, including a superb 2004 Harley-Davidson Fat Boy for sale at around $8,800. Alfredo and his wife Jhogeny join us to make the trip to Puerto Plata.

Two routes are available to reach the port city: Highway 5 or the panoramic Route 25. I personally prefer the second option. But since I’ve been invited to follow the Conquistadors de Santiago, I’m not going to impose my choice and will accept whichever option they favor. A slight disappointment washes over me as we enter Highway 5. While motorcycles don’t pay tolls, the highway offers little interest beyond smooth pavement suited to the comfort of my companions’ large-displacement bikes.

In Puerto Plata, we ride along the Malecón to enjoy the view of the Atlantic Ocean. Numerous murals are painted on the walls of several buildings, not far from the historic center and its colorful Victorian houses. The day’s event takes place just outside the city, in the direction of Cabarete. A large parking lot has been privatized to host the sports cars, with a designated area for motorcycles.

True to the spirit of the country, the atmosphere is festive—music blasting from large speakers struggles to compete with the roaring engines. Mario Roman tells me he organizes this gathering once a year to bring together his two passions and strengthen a community. Unlike Santiago or Santo Domingo, it’s difficult to find active motorcycle groups in the rest of the country. An event like this creates opportunities to make connections and perhaps plan future road trips.