Setting off from Digne-les-Bains, I’m crossing France from east to west to hit the road in search of waves. My Mash 400 Scrambler is loaded down like a pack mule. I’m heading to the Basque Country in search of the first waves of this journey. Over the course of 69 days, I’ll cover more than 11,000 kilometers across four countries and two continents.

For her, I got up at the crack of dawn. I didn’t have time for breakfast. To tell the truth, I didn’t take anything with me except the keys to my motorcycle, a Mash 400 Scrambler. For fifteen minutes, I rode along the coastal town of El-Jadida to reach my meeting point, Sidi Bouzid Beach. The first rays of sunlight are about to illuminate the Kingdom of Morocco on this mild October morning. Mahmoud will be joining me soon. Thanks to this local surfer, I’ll soon be able to meet her—or rather, I’ll soon be able to ride her.

How can I describe this sensation? Riding a wave that breaks cleanly on one side gives me a feeling similar to that of navigating a series of winding turns on a mountain pass: a sense of freedom, pure, unadulterated pleasure. This moment usually lasts only a few seconds; the body performs movements repeated a thousand times while the mind focuses on avoiding a fall.

From the Caribbean to the Alps

With just a few weeks to go before I turn 32, I dream of combining the winding curves of small roads with the ocean’s random swells. Having returned to a semi-nomadic lifestyle, I have the luxury of several weeks off from late August through early November. After completing my first travel journal for RoadTrip in the Dominican Republic (Exploring the New World), I’m eager to explore another part of the globe.

This time, my starting point will be Digne-les-Bains, my hometown, where the Mash awaits me. Launched in late 2015, I immediately fell in love with the retro design of this gray and orange Mash 400 Scrambler. After riding 50cc bikes during my teenage years, I had just gotten my A2 license. Its 27 horsepower, its single-cylinder engine with distant Honda origins, and its light weight of 151 kg convinced me that this bike would be the ideal companion for a young rider like me.

Since March 2016, I’ve been cruising the back roads of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and the Bouches-du-Rhône. Over the years, the Mash 400 Scrambler has taken me farther and farther: to Italy, Switzerland, and Spain. August 2025, with over 35,000 kilometers on the odometer and no major issues to report, it’s time to see what it’s really made of.

Starting from Digne-les-Bains, I plan to cross France from east to west to officially launch the Road to the waves in early September in the Basque Country. I’ll ride for about ten days along the northern Spanish coast, passing through Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia before heading to Portugal via the northwest. I’ll cross the country to reach the southeastern border before heading toward the Strait of Gibraltar to leave Europe and enter Africa via Morocco. In Morocco, I’ll travel as far as Agadir, alternating between the coastline and the roads near the various Atlas Mountains.

To plan my route, I used the Calimoto app. It’s easy to use, so I set out stages of about 300 kilometers with stops at major points of interest (surf spots, mountain roads, tourist towns and villages), while opting for winding roads rather than the faster routes suggested by Calimoto. With the premium subscription, I was able to download maps of the different countries so I could use them offline and avoid using mobile data. Before leaving, I also installed a navigation mount with wireless charging so I’d never run out of battery on the road. For 68 days, I’m all set to cover about 9,200 kilometers, hoping to surpass the symbolic 10,000-kilometer mark by adding a few stops on a whim!

The Mash, loaded down like a pack mule

Friday, August 29—it was time to set off. With my dad’s help, we figured out the best way to pack all my gear. I put my camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, down jacket) in the panniers on both sides. From the middle of my seat to my taillight, my bag of clothes will be secured with a system of straps. Finally, my important items (papers, camera, puncture repair kit, first aid kit, chargers) are placed in a magnetic bag attached to the gas tank, which a friend lent me for the occasion. I opted for a DIY solution rather than investing in state-of-the-art equipment.

As a warm-up, my first stage is only 136 kilometers long and stays within the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region. The idea is to tackle several mountain passes that I’ve enjoyed for years to get my legs going while heading to the village of Simiane-la-Rotonde, where a friend is celebrating his anniversary. It’s a way to combine business with pleasure.

From Digne-les-Bains, I start with the Col du Pas de Bonnet before crossing the Col de Fontbelle, known as a classic stage of the Monte Carlo Rally. The descent leads to Sisteron, a gateway between the Dauphiné and Provence. I then head toward the Montagne de Lure before reaching the entrance to the Luberon Regional Park.

The next day, I take small roads winding through hilltop villages in the Vaucluse department. Vineyards, lavender fields, and olive groves serve as the backdrop. I make a short stop in Lourmarin, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France, before exploring the Alpilles Regional Nature Park. I take the opportunity to visit the Pont du Gard, a masterpiece of antiquity with its three tiers of arches and a height of 49 meters. Summer is drawing to a close, and the start of the school year in September is approaching. For me, the journey has only just begun.

Dodging the Rain

In Montpellier, some newlywed friends are hosting me for the night. Tomorrow’s forecast calls for changeable weather, but not as severe as in the Bouches-du-Rhône department, which is under an orange alert for “thunderstorms” and “heavy rain and flooding.” I leave Montpellier early to cross the Haut-Languedoc Regional Nature Park. Despite the gray skies, I enjoy my stop in Olargues, also listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France.

I arrive in Toulouse around midday, having stayed dry the whole way. Having worked at Hostel 20 in Bayonne a few months ago, I’ve opted to spend one night at Hostel 20 in Toulouse and the next in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, at Hostel 20 – Ramuntcho.

What a joy to be back on the mountain roads of the Basque Country! The Ahusquy road offers breathtaking views at an altitude of around 1,000 meters. Near the ridges, animals graze freely in lush pastures. As I begin a technical descent, I spot a rock a little further to my right that looks a bit too white. The sound of my engine dispels any doubt: it’s an Ossau-Iraty sheep resting there, which, startled by the noise, has leaped in fear right into the middle of the road. My instinct was to swerve around it. That was a close call!

The Pilgrims’ Faith

The first stage of the Camino Francés, the most popular route for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. My brief stay in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port gave me the chance to get to know some pilgrims. One of them was Loïc, from Essonne. At 33 years old, he set out on this challenge from his home department to answer the call of the path and deepen his faith. On the road for over a month with a 20-kg backpack, he moves forward steadily, highlighting the wonderful encounters he’s had along the way. He doesn’t know exactly when he’ll arrive, but he hopes to find love along the way.

As I follow the Spanish north coast via numerous local roads, I’ll regularly see other pilgrims walking along a different route—the Camino del Norte. But before that, I must first cross the border between France and Spain. I opt for the Col d’Ispéguy before heading toward the coast to reach Jaizkibel, the westernmost mountain in the Pyrenees. I discovered this route—the setting for Punk’s Peak (a 400-meter sprint where 100 riders compete on vintage bikes)—during an edition of the Wheels and Waves festival in Biarritz.